#7 Cotton Linen

When people hear the words “denim jacket,” most will probably picture the classic trucker jacket—commonly known in Japan as a “G-jacket”—or the timeless coverall. SPELLBOUND has offered these enduring styles for many years, and with the recent resurgence of denim, many people likely already own at least one.

Yet the world of denim jackets also includes styles with roots quite different from those of truckers and coveralls. One such example is the military-inspired denim jacket.

Denim was originally developed as a fabric for workwear. Thanks to its exceptional durability, it was also used for military work clothing more than a century ago.

The 8oz Cotton-Linen Denim Military Shirt Jacket introduced here is a reinterpretation of a denim pullover shirt believed to have been adopted by the U.S. Army around 1919. In addition to accounts suggesting that it was worn as workwear, surviving examples have been found with “PW” stenciled across the shoulders and back—an abbreviation for “Prisoner of War”—indicating that the garment may have been used in a variety of military settings.

The Intriguing Contradiction of a “Pullover-Style” Jacket

One of the most distinctive features of this model is that, while it appears to be a pullover at first glance, it is actually constructed with a full-opening front.

A contrasting fabric is applied to the inside of the front placket, while the bottom two buttons feature a different design. These are more than decorative details. The concept imagines a pullover jacket once worn by a military veteran and later converted into a full-front opening at a local alteration shop.

In such a setting, perfectly matching fabric and buttons may not have been available. Even these subtle irregularities have been intentionally incorporated into the design.

The concealed button placket is another defining feature. The overlapping pointed section at the bottom of the placket is particularly difficult to sew and was refined through repeated sampling and testing. While the design preserves the character of vintage garments, its construction reflects modern precision.

A New Kind of Denim—Unexpectedly Soft

Another major feature is the original fabric developed specifically for this garment.

The material is an 8oz nepped denim composed of 88% cotton and 12% linen/ramie. While retaining the distinctive character of denim, it has been designed with a softness and smoothness that differs from conventional denim fabrics.

The stiffness and restrictive feel often associated with denim have been reduced, resulting in a supple, lightweight touch. It offers a wearing experience quite different from that of a traditional denim trucker jacket.

At overseas trade shows, the fabric has attracted considerable interest from buyers as soon as they touch it—its distinctive texture is something that can be appreciated immediately.

Linen Is Not Just for Summer

Although linen is often associated with spring and summer, this garment focuses less on seasonality and more on the richness and character of the material.

The natural irregularity and depth unique to linen and ramie were chosen to give the denim a new expression. The result is a lightweight fabric that is particularly well suited to layering.

It can be worn as a light outer layer during spring and summer or as a mid-layer beneath heavier outerwear in autumn and winter, offering a well-balanced design suitable for year-round wear.

Denim Made to Be Worn with Ease, Rather Than Carefully “Cultivated”

After garment washing, this piece is naturally sun-dried, creating a finish that is less likely to undergo dramatic changes in texture through regular wear and washing.

Rather than focusing solely on the fading and aging typically associated with denim jackets, this garment is designed to be worn casually and comfortably as part of everyday life.

A vintage-inspired background, meticulously designed details, and an originally developed fabric come together in a carefully balanced piece made for modern everyday wear.